Travels - Beijing October 2009 (Page 1)
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When I accepted the assignment to live and work in Korea, one of the most attractive aspects of the assignment was that we would have a chance to travel in Asia. Nancy and I even made a list of places we wanted to visit during our 3 year assignment; China, and specifically the Great Wall, was at the top of that list. A visit to the Great Wall was the one trip that excited and intrigued us the most.
So finally, on October 1, the literal 3rd anniversary of my assignment start date, we were thrilled to be boarding an airplane to Beijing. Making it even more interesting was that our trip was starting on the 60th anniversary of the foundation of communist China, and that my brother Jason was flying in from San Francisco to join us.
We were in Beijing for only 6 days and toured only for 4 of those days but due to the scope of the visit, I'm going to break this travel review into 2 parts. You'll find the links to Part Two through out the travel review.
PART ONE - The Great Wall and the Forbidden City
Our arrival was somewhat inglorious. Our connecting flight was delayed due to the Beijing Airport closure which was imposed by the Chinese leaders who were holding a grand 60th anniversary celebration at mid-day. The airport needed to be closed due to fears of 9-11 type attacks they said. Even carrier pigeons would not be allowed to fly during the parade and other events in Beijing (I'm not making this up).
However, after a 4 hour delay, we arrived, met up joyfully with brother Jason, and were hopeful that we would still be able to head down to Tiananmen Square to see some the fireworks display that was too have outdone even the Olympics. Upon arrival at the hotel this hope was crushed though. Only Communist party officials were allowed at the T-Square event - everyone else was to watch by TV. Taxis were not allowed to take people to the T-square area. But - glimmer of hope - the fireworks were to be so huge that we were invited to stand outside the hotel and watch them. "They'll be every where" we were told.
Ah, so outside we went and waited, and waited, and caught glimpses in the distance of a few fireworks. And we heard a few rumbles and pops of more fireworks over dinner on the restaurant TV. China's celebration of it's "people's party" birth was restricted to a few thousand officials and "the people" were asked to stay home for fears of what the crowds might do if left to celebrate on their own terms. China, you still have a ways to go it seems even after 60 years and an incredible surge to the front stage of world super powers. Maybe in another few decades your celebration of "the people's" triumph will actually include something for all the people to participate in.
Anyway, the next day dawned to beautiful blue sky's and 70's temperatures that quickly allowed us to put behind the disappointments of arrival day and missed fireworks. Our guide and driver met us at the hotel and we went off to the Great Wall which we discovered has earned it's accolades 100%. Fortunately for us, Chinese tour groups had been banned from traveling to Beijing for the holiday weekend so, while most tour groups were just getting on the road to come to Beijing, we had a very uncrowded time atop the wall.
I should pause a this time to explain to those who have not heard, that The Wall is a very commercial experience these days. Upon arrival you pay an admission ($7/person) and, after maneuvering through a street of souvenir vendors, you have your choice of how to get up to the wall: Gondola or chairlift. For us, the guide selected the chairlift ($8/person) which whisked us atop of the wall in short order. Once on top, we explored for some time after which we went to our selected method of conveyance down the mountain. In our case this was the "slideway" or as most better recognize the device, a one man toboggan on wheels ($9/person). The kids quickly declared the slideway to be the very best part of the trip and I would have to agree that it was very cool. It would also not be allowed to exist in the US as each person is in control of their own decent speed and you can run into each other at whiplash like rates of speed - a fact we demonstrated to each other multiple times.
But back to the wall. The Great Wall winds across northern China for over 5000km (3000 miles) and potentially up to 7000 miles (another 2000 km section has recently been discovered heading west into North Korea but it is debated whether that section is authentic). Winding is an understatement as it seldom goes in a straight line for more than a 100 meters or so and follows the lay of the land to keep the best high ground defensive position. In fact, from the section we explored, you could stand looking straight north off the wall we stood on (running east and west) and see the wall running past you 2 more times before finally heading off into the east. It is a truly spectacular sight and a bit daunting to think about being constructed before the advent of earth movers and heavy machinery. Legend has it that the mortar for the wall is made from the bones and blood of slaves and craftsmen who were sentenced to forced labor on the wall. While this may not literally be true, the figurative concept is undeniable.
In addition to being a stunning achievement and tribute to mans ability to manipulate his environment, the wall is also a tribute to the futility of tyrants trying to hold to power over a populous who does not feel beloved of their leader. While the Wall was never breached by force and was an undeniably a great military defense, it fell on multiple occasions to treachery and bribery since those on the wall were often not enamored of or well paid by the rulers of the day.
From the wall we went on to have lunch at a local trout farm and we tried our hands at catching lunch with bamboo and line fishing poles. After catching a bunch of absolutely nothing, our guide instructed the staff to catch the fish for us at which point the staff grabbed a net, scooped a couple of trout out of the pond and preceded to brain them with a steel pipe right there. Ah, China. The lunch was, at least, delicious.
After lunch we were off to the Ming Tombs Sacred Way Walk. This is the road the emperor would walk to visit his ancestors graves and the way on which an emperors body would be carried to his own eventual resting place. As such, the path is lined with statues of animals, generals and priests meant to serve the emperor and protect his spirit. It's a very pretty walk with large weeping willows. The kids enjoyed clowning about the statues which at first seemed disrespectful until we saw all the locals taking far more latitude with the statuary than our kids could muster.
The next day was again beautiful and we headed out to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. By now those local Chinese tour groups had arrived and were out in force, plus it was the weekend. As a result we learned a whole new meaning for the word "crowded". At one point, as the crowd funneled down into an underpass to get to the square, I honestly feared I would loose my grip on Joshua's hand and never see him again. The press was so tight, that I could not see him at the other end of my outstretched arm. Chinese crowds are not fun.
But once we were through the press and into the square itself, the crowd dispersed enough for breathing room and we could move about fairly well. The square proved an interesting sight decorated for the 60th anniversary with red flags and floats from the parade two days earlier. Tiananmen Square is the largest city square on the planet and is just like the pictures from history text books. The giant photo of Chairman Mao looks out from the Imperial City Wall and this place FEELS like communist China. An interesting if not altogether pleasant sensation.
After walking about T-square a bit, we crossed over to the Imperial City and entered the gate way. The most amazing thing about the Imperial City, and the Forbidden City which it encloses, is easy to describe....it's the size. The place in mammoth. In the dictionary, if you look up "mammoth" and they don't have a picture of the Imperial City in next to it, buy a new dictionary.
The Imperial City was built in the 1300's as the residence of the Emperor of the Ming Dynasty. It is a walled area which houses many gardens and temples including a very large parade ground area where exhibitions, public declarations from the Emperor and executions were handled. The main courtyard and parade ground you enter first on arrival is larger than 2 football fields and while attractive is fairly modest and workman like in features. In the early 1400's the Forbidden city was built inside of the Imperial City walls and it takes up an area 2/3's of a mile by 1/2 a mile. And the Forbidden City is only about half the size of the Imperial City.
The Forbidden City (here after referred to as the FBC) is what we were after though and we entered as do all visitors through the center arch of the Meridian Gate in the rear center of the Imperial City parade grounds (once exclusively used for the Emperor). Inside that gateway is another massive courtyard with 5 bridges over the "Golden Water River". It was here that the kids started asking if we were done yet and I did not have the heart to tell them that we had yet to see any of the 980 buildings or 9999 rooms in the FBC. Again, "Mammoth".
After crossing the bridges on the Golden Water River, we then went on to the Gate of Supreme Harmony and the Courtyard of Supreme Harmony (see photo at top of this page). From there we climbed up the platforms of the Hall of Supreme Harmony (photo at top,building at center) and past that into the Imperial Gardens and Palace of Heavenly Purity and the finally out the Gate of Divine Might. Actually, I'm leaving out several stops but you get the idea. Mammoth.
The Forbidden City is so called because only the emperor could determine who entered and he was the only true man allowed to sleep in the FBC (not counting his eunuchs). No women were allowed in the FBC at all save the emperor's consorts and his mother. When considered, this makes the size of the FBC that much more impressive since much is just open space for the emperor and his consorts. It's hard to imagine that all of this was built for just one man and it was done in just 14 years. It's an impressive display of what people can accomplish and an amazing display of the power the emperor had.
Our tour of the FBC lasted about 3 hours and was hardly exhaustive although it was exhausting. So we shot off to a great meal at a Beijing Noodles (yum) and then on to the Beijing Zoo for a quick stop at the Panda Exhibit (very cute). We wrapped up the day with an acrobat show (think Cirque Du Soleil).
Beijing, China - Oct 2009 - The Main Courtyard of the Forbidden City
Sarah and Nancy riding up to the top of the Mutianyu Great Wall. A section of the "slideway" we took down from the wall is on the right.
All of us on the Wall as it snakes away to the West behind us.
Me on the wall. This section of the wall is restored so the masonry is in very good shape (new). Some day we hope to return and visit some of the "Wild Wall" (unrestored)
Jason and Sarah about to enter one of the wall watchtowers.
The Sleeping Buddha Mountain peak as seen from the wall. Can you see the face looking upward? The nose is dead center, lips slightly to the right of that. There is a portion of the wall coming up his cheek and a watchtower on his chin (another barely visible on his throat).
Josh on the wall staircase.
Looking out to the North from our section of the wall. There are 2 watch towers on the closest ridge (about a half mile away) and then 2 more visible on the ridge further off.
Happy Sarah on the wall.
View out of a watch tower window on the wall. The sleeping Buddha mountain peak can be seen at the top, slightly to the right of center.
Mutianyu Great Wall
Restored Watch tower
Jason Sarah and Josh attempting to fish for lunch.
All smiles at the Mutianyu Great Wall
Sacred Way Walk at the Ming Tombs. The Lion guardians look on.
Jason walking into the entrance to the Sacred Way Walk, Ming Tombs
Josh hides behind a Qilin (a mythological guardian which is a combination dragon, fish and ox). The Qilin's duties include punishing the wicked thus he is a very important guardian of the tombs. Should a wicked person pass-by he will attack and spout flames from his mouth. The Qilin is normally gentle and will only serve a wise and benevolent leader. He can also walk on grass without bending a blade of it - Josh makes no such guarantee.
Sarah and Josh taking a break on an Elephant along the Sacred Way Walk.
Sarah getting a boost from Joshua. Proving that there are something's in this world that you don't want to know how they are created. Among them: Sausages, Laws, and the poses in our pictures.
Tada! Hey, how'd you get up there Sarah?!
You can write to Sarah at Sarahpetlovr@gmail.com. Here she proves that her pet love even extends to stone lions.
Jason posing with the Elephant.
A soldier guarding the Sacred Way Walk.
The detail work is impressive.
Roundtrip airline tickets from Seoul to Beijing ($250/person); a driver, van and English speaking tour guide to show you the historic sites ($150/day); running and jumping and grabbing willow tree branches on the Sacred Way Walk of the Ming Tombs (priceless).
Tiananmen Square crowds - crazy.
Looking at the Imperial City Gate (and Mao) from from Tiananmen Square. Still crowded.
All of us at the entrance to the Imperial City
Gate to the Imperial City
All of us in the main courtyard of the Forbidden City. The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the building behind us. Used for enthronement and wedding ceremonies only.
One of the 7000+ dragonhead waterspouts in the Forbidden City. Paxia, one of the 9 dragon sons was a water dragon so these pay honor to that dragon when it rains.
A female Lion guards one of the many gates in the Forbidden City. You can tell it is a female because it's left paw is holding a lion cub. If it were a male the left paw would hold an orb (the world).
Lions at another gate in the Forbidden City. The one in the background is a male (holding the earth in it's paw). Note that the wall of the Forbidden city are painted in red, green and gold. Red is the Chinese color representing joy and prosperity. Green represents youth and vitality.Gold (referred to as yellow) represents earth which was the center of everything and as such is the official color of the emperor (only the emperor could have a gold roof since the emperor was held to be the center of the universe).
This gold pot is one of 900 water pots kept in the city year round. This was done for fire prevention and the pots can be heated with fire from below in the winter to keep the water from freezing.
The courtyard at the rear of the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden city - smallest of the 3 main courtyards. The gate in the center is the entrance to the Palace of Heavenly Purity - the emperor's residence.
More of the dragon head water spouts - these on surrounding the Hall of Supreme Harmony. Would have loved to see then in action but had to "settle for a perfect blue sky day (a rarity in typically smog covered Beijing)
Josh the Rock Star. With is red hair Josh finds himself a walking photo opportunity everywhere we go in Asia. So far Beijing was the worst for this. With is "gold roof" (red hair), people find him an irresistible draw for their pictures. He must have stood for about 20 pictures during this trip. He was kind and never turned anybody down. What a trooper. At least only one person kissed him this trip. That's usually his fate in Korea.
A pagoda in the Imperial Garden - the emperor's private garden in the Forbidden City. The last emperor, Puyi, was ousted in the Chinese revolutionary war that followed WWI and eventually ended up working in this garden (or the Beijing Botanical Garden depending on what history you read) as a common citizen after spending 10 years in a Chinese "Reform" prison. Quite a fall for the "Emperor of 10,000 years. Watch "The Last Emperor" if you want the full story (not a kid flick).
One of the two giant, one piece marble bas-relief carvings set along the emperor's stair case to the Hall of Supreme Harmony. 55 ft long, 10 feet wide and 4 feet thick, the carving was made elsewhere in Beijing and moved to the Forbidden City in winter by pouring water on the ground, letting it freeze, and then sliding the murals along the ice.
The Gate of Divine Might - Northern entrance to the Forbidden City
Roof of the Emperor's Residence. Only the emperor can have 9 guardians on his roof (The figures from left to right - an immortal riding a Qilin, the 9 lion guardians, another immortal guardian walking with a sword and a dragon).
Panda at the Beijing zoo. Sorry for the poor picture. Had to take the photo through Plexiglas. All the outdoor ones were asleep.
The Chinese love their Pandas. This is a panda display with 1000's of panda's decorated like everything imaginable. My favorite is Spider-Panda.
Spider-Panda, Spider-Panda
Does whatever a Spider-Panda does
Can he swing from a web?
No he can't,
He's a Panda
Look out
Here comes Spider-Panda
(Borrowed and paraphrased shamelessly from "The Simpson's - Spider-Pig"
